At my wits end. ka24de

thought this would be a better place for my issues than my intro thread. Sorry for the literal paragraph, I can get pictures if needed, so here's the story;

     I hit a unavoidable pot hole 3 weeks ago driving, as I continue to drive home, about 4 miles later my car started to overheat, pulled over to inspect for a leak but found nothing, started up the car again and it ran fine all the way home (approx 7 miles). two days later i take the car to go get a wash and the car starts to overheat again. I replaced the thermostat and nothing changed, i found a loose wire on the 2-wire prong for my coolant  temp sensor, so I got another and put it in (the connections are good), seems fine for about 30min. at temp so i drive around the block, voila, same shit. so now I go out of my way to really bleed the shit out of the system the proper way (my blower motor for the interior does not work so idk about the heater core), finished. The car seems good, makes it about 8 miles before it starts climbing in temps, so as i'm sitting waiting for the cool down, I get the notion to run with the radiator cap 1/2 on and... the car doesn't over heat. So now I order a koyorad set-up with that over priced water wetter bullshit.

 Problem 2:  As i'm driving like this for a bit, I decide to make a trip up to TF, the car dies at a stop light, will turn over but wont run, after 30+ tries it starts up and runs rough then eventually mellows out, this happens 2 more times before I get home. couple day pass and its fine. now (today) it doesn't start.


Problem 3: car idles at 2300rpm and refuses to drop, when rolling to a stop it climbs to 2300 and chills there. iavc and all that shit is adjusted to the fullest i've played with the egr block off and the vacuum hose under neath the intake, the throttle pulley stopper pin, and not much else

i dont really have anything to contribute to this thread, except to tell you that this site actually isnt the best place to ask technical questions about diagnosing issues. We're all car retarded, we just know how to make shit look cool.

Oh ok. I just figured that most of you guys have ka knowledge out of the wazoo but I'll just deal with my shit. Thanks for the heads up

Yeah not the best forum for technical stuff.
But have you checked the TPS sensor and your timing? Also vacuum lines and loose connections?
Try to replicate the problem so you can narrow down the symptoms and troubleshoot accordingly.
Most of the time it's the simplest and most overlooked thing that's causing the issue.

I had a high idle problem last month and it turned out to be the TPS and my timing. Apparently the distributor was not bolted on all the way and came loose and in turn rotated the dist. enough to jack up the timing causing it to die and run really rough. Plus the bad TPS made the problem worse.

Fuck what ryan was being sarcastic about. There is more general car/flat out race car knowledge on this forum than almost any other beside Ziptied. We're just lazy as shit and over the excitement hill. Anyway, good luck with your ka, i went through all the same overheating issues with my first ka like 10 years ago.

Turned out to be my coolant temp sensor. Shit was overheating at weird times and not turning over after a hot drive until it cooled way down. I put an aftermarket temp gauge in the car after that and realized that a lot of the time, the stock gauge was just wigging out. Stock cluster temp gauge is like a 3 position sensor, cold as fuck, running temp, blew your headgasket two minutes ago.

I'm waiting on a New ignition coil to come in since I cannot start it now to install and bleed the new coolant system. Once that's said and done we'll see where I'm at. I've replace both temp sensors the 3-wire and 1-wire, those SEEM to work good, I'm banking my hopes on the new setup to rid me of my problems. Anyone have an extra blower motor by chance? Haha

D*S Dstar wrote:

Stock cluster temp gauge is like a 3 position sensor, cold as fuck, running temp, blew your headgasket two minutes ago.

Lulz

Yea dude, alternate water temp. meter is ideal for any type of accuracy in measuring engine vitals. Also recommend a surge tank for constant air bleeding. Best shit I've ever done to my car. Looks cool and takes care of bleeding coolant for impatient goofs like me.

As far as shutting off.. Check for any loose/corroded grounds or unplugged shit you might have knocked loose.

High idle? I know you said you checked vacuum shit. Double time that shit real quick to be sure. If you're a faggot, bust out that yung vape and smoke out any potential leaks. If not, deff check out tps/iavc or like chakakan said, fuck with the dizzy/re-time it.

Dunno if you are on fb but that one s-chassis page had a whole blower assembly shit for sale recently.

Good luck. Fucking sucks tackling gremlins like this on these fucking shitboxs.

I shall report back guys, thank you for your help

D*S Dstar wrote:

Fuck what ryan was being sarcastic about. There is more general car/flat out race car knowledge on this forum than almost any other beside Ziptied. We're just lazy as shit and over the excitement hill.

I wouldn't put us that high up there, but pretty much this.

No offense to you dude, but I simply don't have much time in my day to help troubleshoot car problems over the internet these days.

It's probably the carburetor.

Most definitely