What does this sound like!!!

tyler wrote:

^LMAO. calm down bro.

fix it so we can go sliding.

Yup, I think im going to just throw in a new ka dont want to deal with that rebuild bullshit.....

^sounds like a plan. plus minimal downtime.

Specter wrote:

if he broke a rod his engine would not run... period

My buddies Neon broke a rod after he hydrolocked it, was able to drive it about 4 miles and was able to drive it to the shop the day after. But he did need a new engine.

i will give american peices of shit credit for that... they car break a rod and still drive...

HOWEVER

on pretty much any Japanese/Euro [or basically any country that uses the metric system] if you break a rod you will stall/seize the engine.

think about it this way.

on a KA24E/DE you have a main bearing girter [the one peice main brearing cap] and an interferance valvetrain

when the rod breakes a speed [even like ~2000rpm will do it] the piston is no longer connected to the crank... thus it's going to go somewhere.

option one: it goes for the head. thus breaking into little peices when it smackes into the head basically grenading the valvetrain... this breaks cams [and only cames if you are lucky] causeing all the remaining valves no longer turned by the cam gears to smack in to the remaining pistons... engine stops

option two: the piston goes for the crank-case... this is the more fun of the two options. basically with the one peice main breaing cap assembily when the piston comes down it lodges in the girder and stops the engine... or if you're really un-lucky comes down with enough force to rip the main bearing caps right off the crank and you get a really fun noise... engine stops.

just because your buddies neon still worked does not mean that every time a rod blows in every engine it'll limp itself to the shop the next day... the way these engines are desigend pretty much keeps that from happening...

here's the reason that your buddy was able to run it in on it's own. the dodge neon uses a modified Hemi design in it's aluminum heads. thus it is a non-interferance engine. so if the cam stop spinning the other non effencted cyls will still fire. if it went the other way there is no one main bearing ass.. the neon uses indevidual bearing caps and little to no baffles in the oil pan, causeing there to be nothing to catch the broken rod/piston on when it fail to the crank if that's the way that it failed.

please know what you are talking about before posting. thanks

Of course I do know what I'm talking about, I just going based on what Truckboy described and what I experienced in the past. Of course a broken rod is not always the case but I'm just posting my 2 cents.

Okay....Ayway does anyone have a ka(DE) laying around that there willing to sell?

Xmax wrote:

Of course I do know what I'm talking about, I just going based on what Truckboy described and what I experienced in the past. Of course a broken rod is not always the case but I'm just posting my 2 cents.

define "experiance"

cause you know that all engines are not made the same... *cough*HEMI*cough*

buddy had a 91 toyota celica. blew a hole right through the block. oil everywhere. drove it home (about 3 miles, knocking loud). every car is different.

BACK ON TOPIC
this guy i know just got done with his sr swap. i'll ask him how much he wants for his engine. his car was auto, and he never beat on it. hopefully he still has it. i'll get back to you truck

Yes tyler please i need one asap!!! I would greatly appreciate it...

Specter wrote:

Xmax wrote:

Of course I do know what I'm talking about, I just going based on what Truckboy described and what I experienced in the past. Of course a broken rod is not always the case but I'm just posting my 2 cents.

define "experiance"

cause you know that all engines are not made the same... *cough*HEMI*cough*

What I mean by experience, I saw my buddy and his brother pulled over at the local gas station, with the hood open. I pull into the gas station and ask what's the problem. He told me when his brother was driving, he accidently went thru a really deep puddle. After that his car stuttered and died. After that he knew the car somewhat hydrolocked because of his CAI. He waited a few minutes and decided to try to start again. It did start after a few tries but once it started he heard a really loud knocking sound. But see if he could make it home. But after a few miles it was unbearble the sound just got louder and louder he decided to pull over to the gas station and thats where I found him. We both tried to diagonoise the problem ourselves and both agree that it was a broken rod just by listening to it. I told him drive it straight home if he doesn't want to pay the tow truck. He agreed and I told him I would follow but he told me that his dad would follow him since his dad just arrived. The next day he took it to the shop not to far from his house. Later that day he called me over the phone and told that it was a broken rod that was making the sound. And it broke the piston right in half as well. And of course I know that all engines are not made the same.

Sorry truckboy to go OT on your thread.

All right back to my problem, havent been able to work on my since ive been in mexico, since ive been back i pulled the oil pump out and realized that there is no damage to it and my oil pan has no shavings in it so im stumped i dont know what it could be???? So im total my car has no oil prossure and makes a weird knocking noise by the front the timing cover....

a friend of mine was out messing around one night. reving the hell out of his car. oil pressure dropped/oil light came on. started making a loud knock. thought he blew his head. started heading home. called me 30mins later said the knocking stopped. been fine ever since.


but.......damn man inono. i'd have to take a look at it. when you drove home that day, you said the car made it home fine? still making noise though? what have you done so far (take apart)? if you need any help, hit me up.

man dude im stumped there seems to be no apparant damage to the oil pump at all and i dont know what it could be so if i cant figure it out im just going to get an other motor....

that would probably be the best bet if you dont feel like tearing it apart. is the motor still in the car?

so the bottom end looks ok? and what about the head?

(i dont feel like reading back) but did you do a compression check?

Yeah its still in but i removed the oil pan and timing cover and the subframe.

so the oil pump is okay

well then, you're getting no pressure at the oil pressure sending unit

have you tried tapping in at that port with a manual guadge?

The head is fine and i didnt do a compression test, but when car was running i took of the oil filler cap and there was no oil going coming up at all....