I have a couple questions. It is a bit complicated so bare with me.
1994 240 with Redtop SR20DET
Stock, stock, stock setup.
FMIC
Stock Maf
Stock Turbo
Etc.
A bit of background. About 4 weeks ago I sucessfully started the car with a Mine's tuned ECU with zero problems besides for the idle and that from running the ECU on a stock setup. Everything worked fine.
I bought a E5 ECU that was previously blown somehow. He jumped the burnt part with wire and a fuse and said it worked. I know the guy and he's a good guy so I believe him when he says this.
I threw the ECU in the passanger seat and it bounced off and landed on the floor. I put it in my car and noticed the fuel pump wouldn't prime. I checked the ecu first to make sure I plugged it in all the way and heard a spark followed by the popping of the fuse.
I opened the ECU cover to find the soldered joint came unconnected. Presumably from me dropping it. I had my friend re-solder the joint and check to make sure it wasn't shorting to any other connection.
Put the ECU back in the car and still the fuel pump won't prime. Checked the fuse with the DVOM along with physically looking at it. I took the pump out to make sure the wiring was still connected and checked everything with my DVOM. I found that the 6pin connector going to the pump had no power going to the pump, but power for the fuel level.
I got on zilvia and found this post...
[quote=Z U L8R;1845381]go by your battery. unplug the little red plug tucked in the fender well. grab the male end of the plug and put your test light (which needs to be connected to your postive battery terminal) and probe the black/pink stripe wire. turn the key on and see if your test light will light up for the first 5 seconds then go out. if yes, now try cranking your motor. your test light should stay lit while you're cranking the motor. if it does both of these things, then your ecu's fine. and somewhere from your fuel pump relay to the fuel pump there's a break in the wire. you can either trace down the open , or run your own power wire from the relay to your pump. or i'll tell you how to wire in your own relay...just depends on how tired of this problem you are
test those 2 things and report back lol.
Dave =][/quote]
First with that male plug. It should be going to ground and not power right? I put it to ground and the relay clicked and the pump came on.
Second is the result.
I put the test light into the male end of the plug and the other end to ground. Turned the key and the pump turned on but would not shut off after the few seconds when it should. Unfortunatly, my battery doesn't have enough juice to crank but for a few seconds before putting it back on the charger but I did attempt to crank it and the pump did stay on. Turn the key off and the pump stayed on along with the "brake" light in the gauge cluster.
I'm wondering if this means that either...
1. The black/pink wire is broken somewhere from the plug to the ECU
2. The ECU is bad.
Like I've said, I've had other problems with this ECU so I'm leaning twords that, but I'm not sure if either of these are even the right conclusion and that it is something else instead.
One other question is the S14 FSM for the ECU pinout the same as a E5 or #62 so I can check resistance between that reddish plug with the black/pink wire to the ECU to confirm if the wire is bad or not?
Thanks for your help.