The wierdest thing, need help badly

Well I just finished a swap in an 91 s13 and it has not been starting for a few days and I have been tgrying to figure out why it is not starting. It shows no sign if even trying to start no poping no nothing just once in a very rare while when i stop cranking after the motor has flooded out it just backfires. Ive cheked my TPS it reads .43v at closed and 4.27 at WOT. Cheked my O2 sensor that works replaced the FPR with the KA one so that works. Got a new coil pack for cylinder #2 so that works. Ive rechecked the wiring and thats all good mechanical timing is good. Then I pulled of my fuel rail with is still hooked up and primed the pump no fuel leaks. The motor floods out the plugs in seconds, but then I crancked it with a buddy while watching the injectors and they are all firing at the same time. I thought that was the problem but then i found that thats how sr20det starts in a fsm.


Im also showing code 55 on my ECU which I dont think is a big deal.
Ive tryed playnd with the CAS to see if it was off but nothing.My friend did did a compression test at his work where my car has moved to now and it goes 1-148psi, 2-136, 3-140, 4-132. So that would mean I have compression and they did a leakdowntest i forgot what it was exactly but it was under 10% between cylinders. They also chekd the timing with a timing light best as possible with just crancking the motor. The only thing is that the wire came of the oil sensor plug so im not getting any signal from the sensor, I really dont think it matters right now but just giving as much information as I can think of and maybe get some help from somebody. Ive been working on this car all winter and its finaly done besides that the motor has been in for about a month and still nothing so any help would be apreciated any advice. Thanks!

This is interesting. I know of another car running a Haltech having the same exact symptoms.

When checking for spark its very erratic. Example:

spark plug from cylinder 1 in cylinder 1 coilpack grounded to intake manifold- Won't fire

spark plug from cylinder 1 in cylinder 2 coilpack grounded to intake manifold- Fires

switch it around so plug 2 is in cylinder 1 and it fires.

Most of the time it will fire, but with a weak spark. We too have adjusted the mechanical timing and are having the same problems. There was a Q45 Ignitor in the car when the car wouldn't run. Turned out it was bad. Borrowed a SR Ignitor and the car fired and ran really, really rich. After a while, it wouldn't start again. No doubt that the plugs are fried, but why the problem is happening is something else.

We havent figured out the problem with this one either, but I'm almost thinking that maybe it could be due to the Ignitor. I say this because of the weak spark in this case and with the Haltech in this car, there isn't much the same to yours but its having the same problem. Unfortunatly, the ignitor works fine in the car it came from. Even after being ran in the other car.

I'm not sure if I would just go about trying someone elses ignitor unless you got some cash on you. I would go through the wiring and make sure you don't have any stray connections or something first to confirm your not gonna fugger up another one.


Thats all I got for ya. Hopefully it helps.

Something else that just dawned on me:

The plug gap should be at .028 IIRC, but you may want to get some new plugs and gap them to that cause yours are again undoubtably shot.

Yeah I alredy fried the plugs that were in the motor were (new) and then another set. These are new havent killed them yet just working on in and yes I gapped them all at .030 but regaped last nite to.028 just in case. About the ignitor it is a stock SR ignitor. The only problem I had with it it came with only one of the plugs and the other one cut of at the harnes so I rewired the cut one to matching colors. Then for the other side the 4 pin out one I used the KA24de distributor plug, I think it was, then found a diagram for the wires and wired it up. There is a crack on top of the ignitor case, that could be a problem. Another thing what is the exact way to test the ignitor with a volt meter or any way, and if anyone has a ignitor chip pin readout or wiring diagram that would be very helpful since the one I had was just a jpeg picture of lines that represented colored wires with a stripe and I have not been able to find a stock SR ignitor diagram.

Thanks

Sign up on www.zilvia.net You should find everything for wiring there.