Blood Diamonds.... Part 1.

Yup, i know what u mean, i was just talking to Edgar and he said that SR's are the worst thing that we could have done to our cars...hopefully when take the head of its just a head gasket and nothing else, cause its not burning oil, its only mixing oil and coolant...

The good thing is that i have a place to put the coupe at while i fix the fastback....

This is seriously setting my build back, head's up guys i might be selling my silvia stuff soon....

yea man, SR's are bittersweet. it just seems like everyone is having problems at the same time.

good luck with the build trucky!

meanwhile i'm trying to keep my cool stuff (body work and paint) on track, i DONT want this engine BS to set that back any farther. still planning on having all body work and paint finished by the time the weather is nice enough to drive it again.

Argh, fall 08 is death to SRs...sucks guys

PacoX wrote:

Argh, fall 08 is death to SRs...sucks guys

mine died back in 07 with a overboostin problem.

NOTE TO EVERYONE..
NEVER USE A MBC!!!!!!!!!!!!!

fuck em.

FusionR300zx wrote:

PacoX wrote:

Argh, fall 08 is death to SRs...sucks guys

mine died back in 07 with a overboostin problem.

NOTE TO EVERYONE..
NEVER USE A MBC!!!!!!!!!!!!!

fuck em.

MBC for the win, im gonna build a sick ass baller car, and then get a MBC...shit's gonna be fire...

so you can be pushing 20lbs again?

That's how i roll.....

Allright well i removed the head, and the headgasket didnt seem damaged at all, i also realized that i had ARP head studs, dont know if the low compression on cylinder 2, was due to the head gasket, im at a hard decision, dont know if i should do the rings..
Since my reading was 120-60-120-120, and also since it was mixing coolant and oil...
Kevin im looking in your direction for advice??

did you retorque the ARP head studs after driving for 2-500 miles on them? i know they start to loosen initially and have to be torqued again. thats what happened with my 4age. i got lazy and figured "theyre fine." sure enough, they listed off and i had symptoms of a BHG again (coolant in water, white smoke, etc)

ill find the info from ARP on this. i had it somewhere.

when i pulled the 4age after the head lifted, some of the studs unscrewd by hand.

from mr2oc

Quote :

During the break-in period, the engine heat cycles, there are many vibrations that move things around, and other things that move the studs in the block. You have to re-torque the studs after this period, mainly to make sure the studs are seated in the block properly. If you do not, the head will eventually lift, and you'll get combustion gasses into the coolant system, overheating the car.

not sure on exact nissan arp use, but here's a overview

NoShoes wrote:

I've been meaning to post this write-up for a while now. I've noticed over the years that MR2 enthusiasts do not take the time to retorque their ARP studs after engine break-in.

During the break-in period, the engine heat cycles, there are many vibrations that move things around, and other things that move the studs in the block. You have to re-torque the studs after this period, mainly to make sure the studs are seated in the block properly. If you do not, the head will eventually lift, and you'll get combustion gasses into the coolant system, overheating the car.

Here's what you do to keep this from happening:

1) Remove the valve cover.

2) Refer to the factory torque sequence (starting in the middle and working your way out in a criss-cross pattern just like you torque your wheels down), and work on one stud at a time. This torque sequence is shown below.



3) Break loose the first nut from the stud using a breaker bar.

4) Remove the nut completely. (A magnetic pick up tool works wonders!)

5) Use an allen key socket (A handheld tool just doesn't cut it here.) to bottom out the stud in the block.



6) Make sure the nut is cleaned, and liberally apply ARP moly lube (not oil, not multi purpose grease, but ARP moly lube) to the nut.

7) Torque the nut down to 65 ftlbs. (Not 70, not 75, but 65ftlbs)

Move to the next stud/nut combo in the torque sequence.

9) Repeat steps 3-8 in the correct torque sequence until you have done them all.

10) Clean the valve cover gasket mating surface with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Use a razor blade to remove old silicone from the mating surface.

11) Apply a dab of Toyota FIPG (the black stuff) at each corner (where the semi-circle meets the flat surface of the head) of the 2 cam caps on the timing belt side, and the distributor shaft tunnel on the flywheel side. This will be 6 dabs of silicone total. (I have no idea how many times I have seen the valve cover installed without these dabs of silicone.) This is shown in the picture below.



12) Secure the valve cover with bolts or the 2SRUS allen key bolts using the factory grommets and you're good. Just DON'T use the stupid phillips head screws.

I hope this helps folks with rebuilt engines. If you do this properly, made sure your block and head were machined properly, and prevent detonation the best you can, you should not have a head gasket problem.

If you continue to have head gasket problems on a high horsepower car (usually when running race gas and lots of boost), I would suggest upgrading to L19 material head studs. These can be purchased from ATS Racing:

http://www.atsracing.net/ats_racing_L19_head_studs.htm

Happy motoring everyone!

Master Trucky wrote:

Allright well i removed the head, and the headgasket didnt seem damaged at all, i also realized that i had ARP head studs, dont know if the low compression on cylinder 2, was due to the head gasket, im at a hard decision, dont know if i should do the rings..
Since my reading was 120-60-120-120, and also since it was mixing coolant and oil...
Kevin im looking in your direction for advice??

it could be that the head lifted or there could be a crack in the head

Kevin when i removed the head, i was actually able to un-screw the studs with my hand.
I had read about that but wasent to sure, im just going to put the head gasket back on and just re torque them..
Since they stole it before I even finished the 500m break in period, and i know they where beating the shit out of it..

Dabs im also going on monday to get the head resurfaced, and inspected, just to be sure...

Allright, since the head was in good condition, and the block had no signs of damage, i moved on to the piston.
So when i removed it from the block, right away i realized that it had two cracks, but i just thought they where only from the surface, but today when i decided to take the rings off, two chunks came off, i was amazed that my block didnt get damaged..

Now i got a set of pistons coming, and rings, with an oem HG set, and the block is in good condition, so i should be up and running by the end of the week..
This shit is weird...im hella stumped...

Edgar dont sell ur SR lets just re-build it!!!!

Master Trucky wrote:

Edgar dont sell ur SR lets just re-build it!!!!

this! rebuilt SR's all around the squad. make it happen. no part outs.

nice man!
im surprised you didnt opt for a cometic HG instead since your only going to do it once.

Nachtmensch wrote:

Master Trucky wrote:

Edgar dont sell ur SR lets just re-build it!!!!

this! rebuilt SR's all around the squad. make it happen. no part outs.

Maybe.

yea why not just get a cometic gasket from TF..?

oem is so thin.

dayum. glad to hear your block isnt ruined man.

President D*star wrote:

Nachtmensch wrote:

Master Trucky wrote:

Edgar dont sell ur SR lets just re-build it!!!!

this! rebuilt SR's all around the squad. make it happen. no part outs.

Maybe.

no maybes. only yeses.

im gonna go post some pics to inspire you now. but not in trucky's thread.

FusionR300zx wrote:

yea why not just get a cometic gasket from TF..?

oem is so thin.

i would go with oem over cometic too.. cometic is garbage...

LongGrain wrote:

i would go with oem over cometic too.. cometic is garbage...

Cometic is fine, they do great stuff. As long as you get the correct one.

Getting 88mm bore one from a retailer cuz thats what they had in stock =

LongGrain wrote:

FusionR300zx wrote:

yea why not just get a cometic gasket from TF..?

oem is so thin.

i would go with oem over cometic too.. cometic is garbage...

i've been running one for a little over 6months with not 1 single problem @ 14psi.

LongGrain wrote:

FusionR300zx wrote:

yea why not just get a cometic gasket from TF..?

oem is so thin.

i would go with oem over cometic too.. cometic is garbage...

is this serious??

I read up on cometic, and i did want one but im kinda pressed for money..so thats why i didnt...

Allright this gonna sound kinda like a newb question, but how do i know wich one to get, since they got like 5 different choices...
This kinda crap stumps me...
Since my shit is just stock...pretty much...
I think it would be 86.0mm x 0.045", or would it be 86.5mm x 0.040"